Does anyone know of a slotted key drill not for sale. Latos drums machine them but he is sold out, anyone else sell them or know how to dyi them. Tune safe lungs make it hard for me to do it manually.
Chris
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Slotted key drill bit
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Hazelwood7
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Slotted key drill bit
Here's what I use. I got it at a hardware store years ago, but there's no brand name on it. It's nice because the outer sleeve slips down over the head of the lug screw.
Scandi Birch Sonorlites 22, 20, 10, 12, 14, 16
Impala Lacquer BumWrap Designer Orphans 22, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16
African Marble Beech SQ2 22, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16
Rosewood Vintage Series 22, 10, 13, 16
LD 547x, D-506, 6.5 x 14 Vintage
I think I'd rather have one with a "guard" over the slotted part, so that the driver slot doesn't have a tendency to slide out of the slot when in use. If you have a lathe, or know someone with a lathe, it shouldn't be too difficult to make one. I don't have a slotted tension rod or I would take a crack at it here.
Tom Betka
Stevens Point, WI
Sonor Vintage (marine pearl finish): 6.5x14, 10, 12, 13, 14ft, 16ft, 18ft, 22
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Hazelwood7
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SonorBart,
Thank you for the suggestion! Have you had issues with the drill bit slipping out because there is nothing to protect the slotted bit?
Tom,
I can always send you a slotted screw but that is something I didn’t do well with, is using a lathe.
Tom,
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Jules
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SonorBart wrote: Sat Dec 13, 2025 6:28 pmHere's what I use. I got it at a hardware store years ago, but there's no brand name on it. It's nice because the outer sleeve slips down over the head of the lug screw.
Slotted Rod Bit.JPG
There is an outer sleeve that slips over the rod, as mentioned.
10"X9" SQ2 Heavy Birch White Sparkle Tom - For eventual interment
New Rig Coming 2026 (Details TBD)
Yes, the outer sleeve keeps the bit in the slot.
Scandi Birch Sonorlites 22, 20, 10, 12, 14, 16
Impala Lacquer BumWrap Designer Orphans 22, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16
African Marble Beech SQ2 22, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16
Rosewood Vintage Series 22, 10, 13, 16
LD 547x, D-506, 6.5 x 14 Vintage
Hazelwood7 wrote: Sun Dec 14, 2025 9:40 amSonorBart,
Thank you for the suggestion! Have you had issues with the drill bit slipping out because there is nothing to protect the slotted bit?
Tom,I can always send you a slotted screw but that is something I didn’t do well with, is using a lathe.
Tom,
Well, I have a couple of lathes and a couple of mills, so no sweat there. Do you have a key for a slotted head tension rod? If so, you could send me the key and a tension rod, and I could model something up in Solidworks over the Christmas break, and then make it. I think we'd want to pin the tube to whatever slotted driver shank/bit we were going to use as well--so the things are basically a functional "unit" after that.
I guess I'm game if you want to try it. It would take me a couple of weeks to get done though--but I do have two weeks off, starting next weekend. So I would definitely have time to work on it over the holidays.
Tom Betka
Stevens Point, WI
Sonor Vintage (marine pearl finish): 6.5x14, 10, 12, 13, 14ft, 16ft, 18ft, 22
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DaveInNZ
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Can't add to this except to say the 'Speed key' - the one shaped like an S works well for quick removal of slotted rods, but I also have one of the Aaron Latos bits and the idea works brilliantly.
SonorBart wrote: Sat Dec 13, 2025 6:28 pmHere's what I use. I got it at a hardware store years ago, but there's no brand name on it. It's nice because the outer sleeve slips down over the head of the lug screw.
Slotted Rod Bit.JPG
How "stiff" is the movement on the outer sleeve? Most of those types of things that I've seen over the years has the sleeve move quite freely--so it's good to help to put the driver into/onto the screw head, but then the sleeve can slip up pretty easily...usually leading to the slotted driver coming out of the head. If I was to make one, I would pin (or tack weld with a TIG welder) the sleeve at the correct position, so that it won't move.
Tom Betka
Stevens Point, WI
Sonor Vintage (marine pearl finish): 6.5x14, 10, 12, 13, 14ft, 16ft, 18ft, 22
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